Climbing in Romania: Climbing in Piatra Craiului

Piatra Craiului is an atypical massif, situated between Bucegi and Fagaras Mountains. It is a bright white limestone massif surrounded by conglomerate and crystalline schists.

Maps of the massif:

Key features for climbing in Piatra Craiului

Rock type: limestone
Climbing disciplines: multipitch, sports climbing
In place protections:

multipitch: old pegs, mobile protections needed
sports climbing: mostly bolted

Fees: You will have to buy an access ticket in the park (either from the Zarnesti post office or the headquarters of the National Authority of Piatra Craiului Park - found close to Zarnesti, on the road to Plaiul Foii)

Easiest access: from Zarnesti city (close to Brasov)
Accomodation: huts in Zarnesti or Plaiul Foii. You can place a tent (but you don't have camping facilities). You can also trek to one of the refuges (be careful to take water, there are no water springs once you climb in Piatra Craiului)
Trek to the climbing areas:

for sports climbing: 10-30 minutes
for multipitch: up to 3 hours

Best climbing period: all year
Water source: you will find water springs at the base of the mountain

several springs in Plaiul Foii
one water fountain at Fantana lui Botorog - on the other side of the mountain, towards Curmatura Hut
water spring close to La Table, on the S part of Piatra Craiului
you can get water from the huts (such as Curmatura hut)

Attention! Piatra Craiului massif is a dried out rock, you will find no water springs once you start going up.

Approach to Piatra Craiului

From Zarnesti city you can choose your direction: going on the S or N side of Piatra Craiului.

For N, you will go towards Plaiul Foii hut.
For S you will head for the Zarnesti Gorge.

South side of Piatra Craiului & Zarnesti Gorge
The south side is milder in regard to terrain and you won't find many climbing possibilities here. It is easier to get to the main ridge of the massif, passing Curmatura hut (probably the most beautiful hut in the massif). On this side, at the base of the mountain, lies the Zarnesti Gorge, with a multitude of sports climbing routes of varied difficulties

North side of Piatra Craiului and the secundary ridges
The north side offeres most of the multiptich climbing routes in the massif: easy but exposed and beautiful ridges, white limestone faces and exposed walls hanging over canyons and valleys.
It is this rugged terrain formed by valeys and couloirs (called "padini") that reaches the main ridge of Piatra Craiului.

The main weakness line and the classical route that brings you to the ridge is the marked trail of La Lanturi (cutting through the middle of the main ridge). The other valleys are not marked and you will have to use your orientation skills.